Yawan sha'awar duwatsu, ba don abubuwa don zanen shimfidar wurare ko wuraren tafiya ba, ya fara a karni na 19. Wannan shine abin da ake kira "Zamanin Zinare na Hawan Dutsen", lokacin da tsaunuka ba su da nisa, ba su da tsayi, kuma ba su da haɗari. Amma duk da haka wadanda suka fara cutar hawa dutsen sun bayyana. Bayan duk wannan, har yanzu ba a yi nazarin tasirin tsayi a kan mutum yadda ya kamata ba, ba a samar da tufafi da takalmi na ƙwararru ba, kuma waɗanda suka ziyarci yankin Arewa mai nisa ne kawai suka san game da abinci mai kyau.
Tare da yaduwar hawan tsaunuka zuwa ga talakawa, yawo a duk duniya ya fara. A sakamakon haka, hawan dutse mai gasa ya fara cikin hadari ga rayuwa. Bayan haka sabbin kayan aiki, kayan aiki masu ɗorewa, da abinci mai yawan kalori sun daina taimakawa. A karkashin taken "Kamar yadda ya yiwu, kuma da sauri-wuri", masu hawa hawa da yawa sun fara mutuwa. Sunaye na shahararrun masu hawa dutsen da suka ƙare kwanakin su a gadon gida ana iya lissafa su a hannu ɗaya. Ya rage a ba da gudummawa ga jaruntakar su sannan a ga inda masu hawa tsaunuka suka mutu galibi. Da alama bai dace ba a samar da ƙa'idodi don "kisan kai" na tsaunuka, don haka a cikin goman da ke cikin haɗari sun kusa kusan a cikin tsari na sabani.
1. Everest (8848 m, na 1 mafi tsayi a duniya) shine a saman jerin saboda girmama sunan dutsen mafi tsayi a Duniya da kuma yawan waɗanda suke son cinye wannan dutsen. Yawan girma yana haifar da yawan mutuwar mutane. Duk cikin hanyoyin hawan, zaka ga jikin gajiyayyu, waɗanda basu taɓa samun damar sauka daga Everest ba. Yanzu akwai kusan su 300. Ba a kwashe gawarwaki - yana da tsada da matsala.
Yanzu, mutane da yawa suna cin nasara Everest kowace rana a cikin lokacin, kuma a zahiri, don samun nasarar hawa ta farko, ya ɗauki sama da shekaru 30. Baturen ingila ya fara wannan labarin a 1922, kuma sun gama shi a 1953. Tarihin wannan balaguron sananne ne kuma an bayyana shi sau da yawa. Sakamakon aikin hawan dutsen doguwa da Sherpas 30, Ed Hillary da Sherpas Tenzing Norgay sun zama farkon masu cin nasarar Everest a ranar 29 ga Mayu.
2. Dhaulagiri I (8 167 m, 7) na dogon lokaci bai ja hankalin masu hawa tsaunuka ba. Wannan tsauni - babban ƙwanƙolin babban duwatsu goma sha ɗaya tare da tsayinsa zuwa 7 zuwa 8,000 m - ya zama abin bincike da wurin balaguro ne kawai a ƙarshen 1950s. Gangar arewa maso gabas ne kawai ke da damar hawa. Bayan ƙoƙari bakwai da ba su yi nasara ba, ƙungiyar ta duniya ta sami nasara, mafi ƙarfi a ciki shi ne ɗan Austrian Kurt Dieberger.
Dimberger ya gama cin nasarar Broad Peak tare da Herman Buhl. Da yake sha'awar yanayin sanannen ɗan kishin ƙasar, Kurt ya shawo kan 'yan uwansa da su yi tattaki zuwa taron daga sansanin a tsawan da ya kai mita 7,400. Masu hawan jirgin sun sami tsira daga mummunan yanayi. Bayan tsawan m 400 na tsawa mai ƙarfi ya tashi, kuma ƙungiyar masu ɗaukar kaya uku da masu hawa huɗu suka juya baya. Bayan tattaunawar, sai suka kafa sansani na shida a tsawan mil 7,800. Daga gare ta, Dimberger, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert da Sherpas suka hau kan taron a ranar 13 ga Mayu, 1960. Dimberger, wanda ya daskare yatsunsa a lokacin harin da bai yi nasara ba, ya dage cewa sauran balaguron ya hau Dhaulagiri, wanda ya dauki kwanaki 10. Fatattakar Dhaulagiri ya zama misali na daidai ƙungiya ta irin balaguron yaƙi, lokacin da aka goyi bayan ƙwarewar masu hawa hawa ta hanyar shimfida hanyoyi a kan kari, isar da kayayyaki da tsara sansanoni.
3. Annapurna (8091 m, 10) shine babban ƙwanƙolin taron Himalayan masu suna iri ɗaya, wanda ya ƙunshi mutane da yawa dubu takwas. Dutsen yana da matukar wahalar hawa daga mahangar fasaha - bangaren karshe na hawan an yi nasara ba tare da dutsen ba, amma a kasa da shi, wato, haɗarin faɗuwa ko faɗuwa da dusar ƙanƙara yana da girma sosai. A shekarar 2104, Annapurna ya salwantar da rayukan mutane 39 lokaci guda. Gaba ɗaya, bisa ga ƙididdiga, kowane hawa na uku yana halaka ne a kan gangaren wannan dutsen.
Wanda ya fara cin Annapurna a 1950 shine Maurice Herzog da Louis Lachenal, waɗanda suka zama abin mamakin tafiyar balaguro ta Faransa. A ka'ida, kungiya mai kyau ce kawai ta ceci rayukan duka biyun. Lachenal da Erzog sun je bangaren karshe na hawan cikin takalmin haske, kuma Erzog shima ya rasa mittens ɗin sa a hanyar dawowa. Thearfin gwiwa da sadaukarwar abokan aikinsu Gaston Rebuffa da Lionel Terray ne kawai, waɗanda suka yi rakiyar waɗanda suka ci nasarar taron ƙoli har suka mutu daga gajiya da sanyi daga sansanin da aka kaiwa hari zuwa sansanin sansanin (tare da kwana a cikin ƙanƙarar kankara), ya ceci Erzog da Lachenal. Akwai wani likita a sansanin wanda ya sami damar yanke yatsun sa da yatsun sa a wurin.
4. Kanchenjunga (8586 m, 3), kamar Nanga Parbat, kafin Yaƙin Duniya na biyu ya jawo hankalin galibin masu hawa dutsen Jamusawa. Sun bincika bango uku na wannan dutsen, kuma duk sau ukun sun kasa. Kuma bayan yakin, Bhutan ya rufe kan iyakokinta, kuma masu hawan hagu an bar su da hanya daya don cinye Kanchenjunga - daga kudu.
Sakamakon binciken bangon ya kasance abin takaici - akwai katon dusar kankara a tsakiyarsa - don haka a 1955 Turawan Ingila sun kira balaguronsu da balaguron leken asiri, kodayake ta bangaren kayan aiki da kayan aikin kwata-kwata bai yi kama da na leken asiri ba.
Kanchenjunga. Gilashi yana bayyane a sarari
A kan dutsen, masu hawa hawa da Sherpas sun yi aiki daidai kamar yadda balaguron 1953 Everest ya yi: bincike, bincika hanyar da aka samo, hawa ko ja da baya, gwargwadon sakamakon. Irin wannan shirin yana ɗaukar ƙarin lokaci, amma yana kiyaye ƙarfi da lafiyar masu hawa, yana basu damar hutawa a sansanin tushe. Sakamakon haka, George George Bend da Joe Brown sun fito daga sansanin na sama kuma suka rufe nesa zuwa saman. Dole ne su bi da bi suna sare matakai a cikin dusar ƙanƙara, sannan Brown ya hau mita 6 zuwa sama ya ja Benda a kan ruwa. Wata rana daga baya, akan hanyarsu, na biyu da aka kaiwa hari: Norman Hardy da Tony Streeter.
A zamanin yau kimanin dozin hanyoyi an shimfiɗa akan Kanchenjunga, amma babu ɗayansu da za a iya ɗauka mai sauƙi da abin dogaro, saboda haka ana cika shahadar tsaunin a kai a kai.
5. Chogori (8614 m, 2), azaman hawa na biyu na duniya, ya mamaye tun daga farkon ƙarni na 20. Fiye da rabin karni, taron koli na wahalar fasaha ya hana yunƙurin masu hawa hawa kan su cin nasara. Kawai a cikin 1954 mambobi na balaguro na Italiya Lino Lacedelli da Achille Compagnoni suka zama masu jagorantar hanyar zuwa taron, wanda a lokacin ake kira K2.
Kamar yadda binciken da aka yi daga baya ya tabbatar, Lacedelli da Compagnoni, kafin harin, sun yi aiki, don sanya shi a hankali, ta hanyar da ba ta dace ba tare da abokin binciken Walter Bonatti da kuma dan dakon kaya na Pakistan. Lokacin da Bonatti da Mahadi tare da babban ƙoƙari suka kawo silinda masu iskar oxygen zuwa sansanin sama, Lacedelli da Compagnoni suka yi ihu ta cikin dusar ƙanƙara don barin silindawan suka sauka. Ba tare da tanti ba, babu jakar barci, babu iskar oxygen, Bonatti da mai ɗaukar kaya suna tsammanin za su kwana a sansanin na sama. Madadin haka, sai suka kwana mafi wahala a cikin ramin dusar ƙanƙara a kan gangaren (Mahadi ya daskare dukkan yatsunsa), kuma waɗanda suka kai harin da safe sun kai saman kuma sun sauko a matsayin jarumawa. Dangane da girmamawa ga wadanda suka ci nasara a matsayin gwarazan kasa, zargin da Walter ya yi ya zama kamar hassada, kuma bayan shekaru goman da suka gabata, Lacedelli ya amince da cewa bai yi kuskure ba kuma ya yi kokarin neman gafara. Bonatti ya amsa cewa lokacin neman gafara ya wuce ...
Bayan Chogori, Walter Bonatti ya gaji da mutane kuma ya bi hanyoyi mafiya wahala shi kaɗai
6. Nanga Parbat (8125 m, 9) tun kafin nasarar farko, ya zama kabari ga dimbin masu hawan Jamusawa waɗanda suka yi taurin kai da ƙarfi a kan balaguro da yawa. Samun zuwa ƙasan dutsen ya riga ya zama aiki mara izini daga mahangar hawa dutse, kuma cin nasara kamar ba shi yiwuwa.
Abin mamakin ya kasance ga al'ummar da ke kan tsaunuka lokacin da a cikin 1953 Hermann Buhl na Austriya ya cinye Nanga Parbat shi kaɗai cikin kusan tsaunin tsauni (kusan haske). A lokaci guda, an kafa sansanin sama da nisa nesa da taron - a tsawo na mita 6,900. Wannan na nufin cewa ma'auratan da ke cikin hadari, Buhl da Otto Kemper, sun samu tsayin mita 1,200 domin cin nasarar Nanga Parbat. Kempter ya ji daɗi kafin a far masa, kuma Buhl da ƙarfe 2:30 na safe ya tafi taron shi kaɗai tare da ƙaramar abinci da kaya. Bayan awanni 17, ya kai ga maƙasudinsa, ya ɗauki hotuna da yawa, ya ƙarfafa ƙarfinsa da pervitin (a cikin waɗannan shekarun ya kasance mai shan ƙarfi ne na doka gabaɗaya), ya juya baya. Dan Austriyan din ya kwana a tsaye, kuma tuni da karfe 17:30 ya koma sansanin sama, yana kammala daya daga cikin fitattun hawan jirgin sama a tarihin hawan dutse.
7. Manaslu (8156 m, 8) ba mahimmin tsawan wahala bane na hawa dutse. Koyaya, na dogon lokaci don cinye mazaunan yankin, waɗanda suka kori masu hawa - bayan ɗayan balaguron ya sauko da dusar ƙanƙara, wanda ya kashe kusan 20 da ƙananan mazauna yankin.
Sau da yawa balaguron Jafananci yayi ƙoƙarin ɗaukar dutsen. Sakamakon ɗayansu, Toshio Ivanisi, tare da Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu, sun zama farkon mai nasara ga Manaslu. A cikin girmama wannan nasarar, an ba da hatimin wasiƙa na musamman a Japan.
Masu hawan dutse sun fara mutuwa a kan wannan dutsen bayan hawan farko. Fadowa cikin fasa, fadowa karkashin dusar kankara, daskarewa. Yana da mahimmanci cewa Ukraniyawa uku sun hau dutsen a cikin salon Alpine (ba tare da sansanoni ba), kuma Pole Andrzej Bargiel ba wai kawai ya gudu zuwa Manaslu a cikin awanni 14 ba, har ma ya tsallake daga taron. Kuma sauran masu hawan jirgin ba su sami damar dawowa tare da Manaslu da rai ba ...
Andrzej Bargel ya ɗauki Manaslu a matsayin tseren kankara
8. Gasherbrum I (8080 m, 11) da kyar masu hawa hawa ke kaiwa hari - ba a iya ganin ganuwa sosai saboda tsaunuka da ke kewaye da su. Kuna iya hawa babban ƙwanƙolin Gasherbrum daga ɓangarori daban-daban kuma tare da hanyoyi daban-daban. Yayin da yake aiki akan ɗayan hanyoyin zuwa saman, fitaccen ɗan wasan Poland Artur Heizer ya mutu akan Gasherbrum.
Amurkawan, waɗanda sune farkon waɗanda suka fara taka ƙolin taron a 1958, sun bayyana hawan da cewa "mun kasance muna sare matakai da hawa kan duwatsu, amma a nan sai kawai muyi yawo tare da jakarka mai nauyi ta cikin zurfin dusar ƙanƙara". Wanda ya fara hawa wannan dutse shi ne Peter Schenning. Shahararren Reinhold Messner ya fara hawa Gasherbrum a salon Alpine tare da Peter Habeler, sannan kuma a wata rana ya hau duka Gasherbrum I da Gasherbrum II kadai.
9. Makalu (8485 m, 8) dutse ne mai dutse wanda ya hau kan iyakar China da Nepal. Kusan kowane balaguro na uku yana zama mai nasara (ma'ana, hawa zuwa saman aƙalla mahalarta ɗaya) zuwa Makalu. Kuma waɗanda suka yi nasara suma suna shan asara. A cikin 1997, yayin balaguron nasara, an kashe Rashawan Igor Bugachevsky da Salavat Khabibullin. Shekaru bakwai bayan haka, ɗan Yukren nan Vladislav Terzyul, wanda ya ci Makalu a baya ya mutu.
Na farko da suka fara taron sune mambobin balaguron da shahararren ɗan faransan nan mai suna Jean Franco ya shirya a 1955. Faransawa sun bincika bangon arewa kafin lokaci kuma a watan Mayu duk mambobin kungiyar sun mamaye Makalu. Franco ya gudanar, bayan yin duk hotunan da ake buƙata a saman, don sauke kyamarar, wacce ta tashi daga gangaren dutsen. Murna daga nasarar ta kasance mai girma cewa Franco ya rinjayi hisan uwansa su sa shi a kan igiya, kuma da gaske ya sami kyamara mai faifai masu tamani. Abin takaici ne cewa ba duk al'amuran da ke faruwa a tsaunuka sun ƙare sosai ba.
Jean Franco akan Makalu
10. Kayan abinci (4478 m) ba shine ɗayan manyan kololuwa a duniya ba, amma hawa wannan tsauni mai hawa huɗu yafi wahalar hawa sama da hawa kowane sauran dubu bakwai. Hatta rukuni na farko, wanda ya hau (gangaren 40 the a kan Matterhorn ana ɗaukarsa mai taushi) zuwa taron a 1865, bai dawo da ƙarfi ba - mutane huɗu daga cikin bakwai sun mutu, gami da jagorar Michelle Cro, wacce ta bi ta farkon hawa Edward Wimper zuwa taron. An tuhumi jagororin da suka mutu da mutuwar masu hawa dutsen, amma kotu ta wanke wanda ake zargin. Gaba ɗaya, sama da mutane 500 sun riga sun mutu akan Matterhorn.
